LOL! By using bias tape to sew the hem, you can use that fabric that is typically turned to the back for the hem to get a little extra length in the legs. Maybe I went a little overboard with pattern matching this shirt? ( Log Out / In this tutorial youll learn how to sew single fold bias binding for armscye but the same principle works for any curved or straight edge. Fold hem allowance up and stitch around free edge of bias tape … Vogue Fabrics stocks most Wrights packaged bias tapes, rick rack, piping, hem facing. So here’s how you do it. Your email address will not be published. Single Fold Bias Tape. To finish up, I’ll show you some of the other things you can do with bias tape. Make sure to cut the tape about 1″ longer than the hem you’re going to make. I also use bias tape on curved hems. For deep curves, you want to steam iron the bias tape into the same curve as the fabric before applying it. Now if you haven’t already done so, hop over to the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt and take a gander at all the lovely indie sewing that’s been going on. It’s in the center of the second wide blue strip to the left of the right hand seam. This one just folds up the 1/4″ on each raw edge, leaving a 1/2″ wide strip  down the center. Once you get it started, you’ll have to hold the first inch or so in place while you press it. I will be making the Granville shirt sometime in the near future, so great tip! Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center. Required fields are marked *. The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. I dare you to find the joint  on this finished bias binding! Copyright © 2021 Melly Sews on the Foodie Pro Theme. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric. I find it helpful to press from the wrong side, then the right side. Lucky you! Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Bias tape is commonly used in armholes, necklines, straps, or ties in both clothing and bags. Give up? Mar 13, 2019 - Finishing a curved hem with bias tape // Kalle Shirtdress pattern Sewalong via @closetcasepatt Change ). Ease the bias into the curve and pin in place as needed. To hem, unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. – Blank Slate Sewing Team ». This is very useful when sewing the tape in a basic curve. This is best for sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza or silk; Using tape to cover the hem on the wrong side of the fabric; Covering both sides along a raw edge with a bias strip; Now press the bias tape up. At the beginning of the tape fold it up about 1/2″. For this 1/2″ finished bias we need to cut strips 1″ wide. Once you have the whole length pressed into neat little bias tape it’s time to apply it. The secret to getting a clean finish on a curved hemline is bias tape! SEWING BIAS TAPE HEM. Hem stitch along the folded edge of the bias tape. Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center fold. Trim tails, press open and attach loose section of bias tape to hem between backstitches. the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt. If you have a complete circle to hem, you’ll have to join the beginning to the end (that will have to wait for a different tutorial though). Discover (and save!) Align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of your hem with right sides together. Stitch the bias tape to the hem along the crease of the fold. After you get started, try pinning the starting end down to your ironing board to keep it in place, then draw the bias maker down the length of the strip keeping your iron close to the folded strip coming out of the bias maker. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. Fold the bias tape over, which will hide the seam created in Step 2. 3. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Since it is cut on the bias it can curve around edges extremely well. With bias tape completely unfolded, sew together at pin. And it lacked some pictures. So here’s how you do it. ( Log Out / Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. It does give the hem a nice drape, and if it’s done in a contrasting color or print you can fold it over only once and have a pretty accent piece. My mother couldn’t see a button on. « Batman and Robin Costume DIY – with free pants pattern! There are also a few methods to sew bias strips. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. ( Log Out / Press this seam allowance away from the hem edge. Just discovered this site and ALREADY LOVE LOVE LOVE it. Unfold one edge of the bias tape. The first one is the fastest. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) Halve the tape so that it edges the hem and is a visible feature. This is great if you want a really narrow hem, alternatively, you could use hem facing which is basically the same thing, but typically the size of a hem fold. Working with bias tape on a straight edge certainly isnt hard but the curves can sometimes be a bit tricky. (Where did you get this fabric – your usual local Joann’s?!). The same method used for adding a bias tape facing can pretty much be used for any type of curved hem as well. Buy products such as Wrights 1/2" Double Fold White Bias Tape, 3 Yd. Lol! Excess fabric is trimmed out. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Bring the bias tape tails together and pin them where they should meet, flush with the fabric. I tried a few different finishing methods when this pattern was in development, and ultimately bias tape gave the neatest finish. Bias Tape is a wonderful thing. 23-jan-2016 - How to sew a curved hem – Hem curves with bias tape - Melly Sews Sorry I forgot to photograph this step until I’d finished stitching the seam so the more keen observer may notice that the seam has already been stitched even though the fabric is still on the machine bed since I put it back on to snap a pic. However, my old tutorial showing you about bias tape and cutting on the bias, is well, really old. 03.09.2019 - Stricken How to sew a curved hem - Hem curves with bias tape, #Bias #curved #curves #Hem #Sew #Stricken #strickenbaby #tape #toomanygirlsinhere. Your email address will not be published. Jun 25, 2020 - In our post on sewing a proper muslin, I mentioned underlining a few times and want to revisit the subject today. If you get neurotic like me, you can even pattern match when joining your strips. For this method of hemming you’ll need some single fold bias tape, either store bought or custom made. For the second of the Indie Pattern Month challenges on The Monthly Stitch, I’ve made two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts. Single fold bias tape is essentially a long strip of fabric with both ends already folded under so that it is ready for use. Basically, you press the bias tape in half, fold it over the hem of the fabric and sew. If necessary, stitch your strips together at the ends to create longer lengths. This technique works best on dress pants and on fabrics that don’t have a crease worn in at the hem. USING BIAS TAPE. Use matching thread if you do not wish for the stitches to be noticeable. It can be made of contrasting or matching fabric. Single fold bias is used to hem curved edges, for example on a circle skirt, and around neck lines. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases through my affiliate links. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. Do this by lining up the bias tape with the raw edge of the fabric, and using the tip of the iron to iron just a bit of the tape at a time while ahead of the iron you continue to line the bias tape up with the edge of the fabric. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. Narrow zig-zag hem, similar to serging. When you’re finished, the tape will hold a curve that matches the edge of the fabric. A straight-grain strip will not curve without kinks and warping. To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. This will make sure raw edges of the bias tape are covered when you’re done. Leave about 1/2″ of tape sticking off the each end of your seam if you have a flat hem to finish like this shirt. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. See it now? In the case of stripes or plaids, a bias binding is particularly attractive since the design when cut on the bias … Overlap this folded edge with the end of the tape. We also carry a wide range of these types of products by the yard or the roll from other suppliers. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. Love this!! To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. Bias is used in many quilting techniques and sewing projects. So what should you do? Due to its flexibility and finished look, bias tape is often used in place of a hem at the edge of a piece of fabric. The Granville puts a feminine spin on the tailoring of a traditional male shirt including details like curved shirt tails. Press. I was taught this by my mother years ago… I guess I thought everyone knew how to do this. Shop for Bias Tape in Notions & Sewing Accessories. Pressing the bias tape to match the curve is such a good idea! Stitch bias tape along entire hem at 1/4″ seam allowance. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, and trim it down to equal half the width of your bias tape if needed. In this case, the bias tape fabric is seen. If your project has top stitching and a top stitched hem will look appropriate, as is the case with this shirt, you can machine stitch close to  the upper edge of the bias. Now press the entire bias tape and seam allowance to the inside of the garment so that it cannot be seen from the right side. Now you have miles of raw fabric strips to feed through your bias tape maker. Give it one more good press and you have a beautiful pucker-free curved hem. Great little tutorial! Adjust the bias tape on the wrong side so that it covers the stitching from step 4 and pin in place. To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. As you may know, hemming a curved edge, especially one that undulates up and down and up and down again without undue puckering can be a tedious task if you try to simply press up twice and stitch. For both methods: Press bias tape down. ( Log Out / You fold once and use very close zig-zag stitches (buttonhole kind of stitch) to cover the fold. Bias tape can be used directly on raw edges of fabric, or can be used to make other types of edging, including piping and binding seams. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. your own Pins on Pinterest In fact, once you understand the stuff, you will LOVE it! Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Bias binding is when bias tape is used to enclose the raw edge of a neckline, armhole, or hem. Follow the directions on the package for cutting your fabric at a 45 degree angle in long strips. If you’re having a hard time sewing bias tape on a curve, you can mark a … You may gently grade the seams if your fabric is very thick. It’s not strictly necessary to do this, as bias tape won’t unravel much even on a raw edge, but I like to do it anyway. How to sew a curved hem - hem a curve with bias tape. Use double bias tape to enclose the hem edge to remain as a visible feature. Heather Handmade shows how you can lengthen pants using a bias tape hem. Stitch in the crease line closest to the raw edge. If you’re sewing the regular shirt, you’ll still have a little bit extra hanging off the placket after you’ve understitched. Melissa Mora is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. October 16, 2014 by Melissa Mora 6 Comments. That was just for my own pure satisfaction. Follow the instructions included with your sewing pattern for the construction of the shirt … Quilting For Beginners Quilting Tips Quilting Tutorials Quilting Projects Quilting Designs Sewing Tutorials Beginner Quilting Sewing Projects Quilt Binding Tutorial * Binding 1-2-3. Quilt Binding. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) - using single fold bias tape. Bias tape usually comes with two folds, as pictured above. I’ll show you how to finish armholes with bias tape, how to use bias tape on a neckline and also how to make a bias tape hem. If you have ends to deal with, open them up and tuck the raw edges in and fold it up again along the creases. Hem tape is a way of hemming your clothes without the use of needles and threads. If it is and inside curve (like on the side of a shirt with a shirttail hem), when you fold the fabric up there isn’t enough to cover the curve, and for an outside curve (like a circle skirt) you end up with more fabric than the hemline when you fold up the raw edge. Bias tape on the other hand is a thin band of material which is cut “on the bias.” A bias simply means an angle of 45 degrees across the fabric. Using a long strong pin can make pulling the starting end through the maker a little easier. Stephanie star-spangledheart.blogspot.com June 13, 2013 Check the hem allowance on your pattern, … In this post I’ll walk you through three ways. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. This video shows you how to work with single fold bias tape and sew it evenly and professionally around curved edges. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. It can be tricky to sew a curved hem. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. Fabulous work on this – congratulations!!! But for all of them you have to make sure that the part of the bias tape that stays underneath is caught in the stitching. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. Underlining fabric is often Using the sewing machine, top stitch around the top edge of the bias tape to finish the hem. There are many ways to apply bias tape to finish a hem. You can read all about my two Granvilles over on The Monthly Stitch blog but here I’d like to share with you how I finished that curved hem of my linen striped version. The adhesive on the hem tape, which is has two sides, gives a strong bond that lasts even through repeated laundering. In fact, it's something that I have used from the very beginning of my sewing adventure...and is not something to be feared. If an invisible hem would be more appropriate to your garment, slip stitch this upper edge in place. at Walmart and save. Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. Be careful around the curves – ensure you press smoothly here, and try to keep the … Bias tape is perfect for a decorative finish on a curved edge because the bias will bend and ease around the curve. Iron the seam and pin the top edge of the bias tape in place. Tutorial: Finishing a curved hem with bias binding. To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. USING BIAS TAPE. Bias tapes are cut on the bias so they are a little stretchy which is good for sewing curved hems. May 18, 2019 - This Pin was discovered by Jennie Petty. And not just because I’m about to undertake circle skirt #3 in the pursuit of Halloween costumes for the short people. Super Skinny Pants with Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy! 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So they are a little overboard with pattern matching this shirt commenting using your Google.... You how to work with single fold bias is used to enclose raw. Stuff, you are commenting using your WordPress.com account in: you are commenting using your account... Using the sewing machine, top stitch around the curve if necessary, stitch your together... Such a good idea find it helpful to bias tape curved hem from the wrong side so that it the... Two Sewaholic Granville button down shirts and around neck lines finish on a circle skirt, and around neck.. Through three ways is hem curves with bias binding place as needed stitch the. Will not curve without kinks and warping super Skinny pants with Boy, Oh Boy so that covers. Long strips with self-bias binding for sewing curved hems curve and pin in place while you press the bias 1/2″. Understitch the shirt hem to finish up, I ’ ll want single fold bias tape it more. On the tailoring of a traditional male shirt including details like curved shirt tails really old and trim it to... The bias tape to finish like this shirt you about bias tape to hem unfold and pin place... Cutting on the Foodie Pro Theme closest to the bias, it be... This issue is hem curves with bias tape, either store bought or custom made sides together with bias tape curved hem edges! Wide strip  down the center of the fabric seam and pin in place the neatest finish pin in while. To match the curve and pin in place Costume DIY – with free pants pattern Granville puts a feminine on! To follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email tape usually comes with two folds, pictured. And attach loose section of bias tape products by the yard or roll.
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